Ruffled Petticoat

  One of the outfits I've been wanting to do for quite some time now is from a painting by Szinyei Merse Pál titled  Woman in Purple  from 1874.

   I'm not sure why but I love this painting.  I was about to start work on the dress when I realized I didn't have all the undergarments I needed for this endeavor.  I had the bustle and corset with an okay-ish corset cover but I didn't have a petticoat. Granted a petticoat wouldn't make a big difference in how this would lay since I was making it out of a poly/satin blend and it's very thin but I want a complete ensemble and if I don't make the petticoat now I'll probably never will.
    I made the basic structure but shortened it quite a bit since I wanted to add a pleated ruffle to the bottom. Yes, I do realize it was a bit of a stupid idea but I wanted to try.

    Back in the 1800's the clothes started getting really fancy with ruffles and frills since they had a sewing machine to help. Even the undergarments got a makeover. Mine wont be as deluxe as some that they made, it will actually be a rather simple with just a bit of frills to adorn the hem with the pleats.

After I had the basic panels cut I sewed them with a french seam then gathered them to the waist band. Making the pleats at the waist band even took a while but it looks good. I didn't measure these I just eyed it till it looked about right and pinned them in place.

 Then it was time for the fun part, the pleating. I made a pleater a year or so ago and I am so glad I did! This is what the process looks like. It's made out of a heavy card stock that has been folded accordion style so the folds are even. You take the fabric and tuck it between every fold and press with an iron to make the  pleats. I didn't get them perfect but they are close enough where they look good from a foot away.

  I have the front done and sewn onto the petticoat. I just don't want to know what will happen to those lovely little pleats when I have to wash it. I'm not pressing them all again as it took an hour and half just to pleat one half.

I'll be making the back have a double row of pleating one extending down lower than the other to give it more of a train support for the dress.

I'm hoping to complete the petticoat tomorrow and get the actual dress fabric laid out but we'll see how that goes. I hope you enjoyed this small view into the making of the ruffled petticoat.